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Halloween Popcorn. Wednesday, October 8, - am. Check out our Halloween Tins. Tuesday, October 7, - pm. Friday, September 26, - am. Tuesday, September 23, - pm. Monday, September 22, - am. Job Fair for CNAs. Friday, September 19, - am. Always giving back! Monday, September 8, - am. Thursday, September 4, - am. Harman Stove Sale Ends Soon.

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Sunday, August 31, - am. This offer expires Sept 8th, ! Mazzeos has Harman wood and pellet stoves in stock. One Day Coupon. Saturday, August 30, - pm. Saturday, August 30, - am. Last Days of Jotul Stove Sale. Tuesday, August 26, - pm. Call it a stove pad or a hearth. Saturday, August 23, - pm. And it is called your chimney flue! DIY Chimney Cleaning rods and brushes. Hire a professional or Chimney Lining Kits In Stock. The Farmer says Are you ready?

Thursday, August 21, - am. Wednesday, August 20, - pm. Limited Time Harman Stove Sale! Wednesday, August 20, - am. Monday, August 18, - am. Offer cannot be combined with any other offers, sales or promotions. Friday, August 15, - pm. Friday, August 1, - am. Tuesday, July 29, - am. Blue Lily Pottery at Arts in the Park. Thursday, July 10, - am. Artist interested in artifacts creates beautiful pottery to use!

Wednesday, July 9, - pm. The Potter's House. Tuesday, July 8, - am. The Potter's House in Litchfield I have been a professional potter since following the dream that I have had since high school. Westport Pottery at Arts in the Park! Sunday, July 6, - am. My name is Nancy Shaul. Moving to Iowa I started my first studio pottery business, selling my pieces through my shop and Midwest art festivals.

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Smaller cocktail size boards. Perfect for cutting that lemon or lime Pick one up for yourself or a few for gifts. FairCape Woodworks www. Cedar Grilling Planks! Thursday, June 19, - am. New product alert! Camden Opera House. Event Date:. Wed, Jun 26 - pm. Try our Blueberry Sangria on our roof top deck! Boat House Bistro. The Boathouse Bistro is a fun and delicious experience in downtown Boothbay Harbor. We offer a well Waterfront Restaurant.

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Join us for an action packed hour of puzzle solving games where MI, USA. Originally Posted By cuttingedge: I would suggest going Here to do some research. AZ, USA. I've only had to use once or twice this year though. I figure once it gets up to temp, there is about lbs of steel, rock and concrete board warmed up and giving off radiant heat for hours and hours. Nice looking install! I'm wanting to do something really similar with a stove in a basement NC13 though. Can you post a closeup pic of how the tile edges up to the stone?

View Quote View All Quotes. Originally Posted By 4v Thanks. It leaked air like a sieve around the door. I need some pipe. Originally Posted By BUCK i saw this home built in a shop yesterday and it was painful if you where within 3 feet of it i loved it. That's exactly what I wanted to see. Born with a low tolerance for bullshit. KY, USA. You might look into the triple wall stainless chimneys. I am building a house and am installing a chimney to the basement. I haven't used it yet but everything I've read about them says that the manufacturer wants a 2 inch gap to combustibles around the chimney but supposedly you can put your hand against the chimney while it's running full blast.

The 2 inch air gap is in case there is a chimney fire. My neighbor has a chimney in his house and it was installed grossly incorrectly. It's only a double wall chimney and it right up against a 2x6 stud. Not even close to right but it hasn't caused any problems. He's still going to have it fixed but it's been working like that for 10 years or so. So, I'm sure that a triple wall chimney would be safe even in your older house.

Also, you mentioned that you have a chimney but not one you trust. Can you run stainless chimney pipe up the flue? There is flexible stainless chimney pipe that is made to go up the inside of a flue. It can line a flue that's not safe in itself to use but the stainless liner makes it safe. My mom had a stainless liner installed in a clay tile chimney and it took a chimney that barely worked to a chimney that worked great. I will definitely look into that. I've read a lot about them, but have no hands-on experience at all. As to the existing chimneys--yes, I have two.

We have one of those flexible flue liners installed in a house we lived in previously. It worked great at that house, but in this one, unfortunately I want the wood stove in a different part of the house from where the chimneys are. It's an old Federal Style farmhouse--a chimney way out on each end as an aside, you can stand in the attic and see light coming through the chimney from outside--between both walls of bricks. I don't want the stove in either of those rooms for two reasons. Not stuck out on one end of the house so that room is sweltering and the rest of the house is freezing.

That's LESS of a tinder box, because the materials are not as old, plus I can build a nice surround and base for it. Foundation and floor in new part will support that, or can be made to support that--not so in the old part Can't do that in the "old" part of the house years old. And I know from experience that with years of burning a wood stove, sometimes you get a spark coming out the door when you're loading or working the fire.

I know I'd have that mental game going on, and would rather avoid it. When we rebuild the chimneys, we'll build a nice hearth and set it up so it works, but that'll be taking an end off the house, more or less. Not picking that fight right now. Way more explanation than you wanted, but all that to say I'm not blowing off the flue liner idea.

I appreciate your typing it out. I wish that would work for us.

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Just got distracted by that gorgeous installation Merlin posted. I ask this because I live in a year old home that is, basically, built out of tinder. I want a wood stove something awful, and am without one for the first time in many, many years. That's the only thing that's stopping me at this point. Kitties edited because I said no chimney. I have two. But not usable at this point. I did the design and then contracted out the demo of the original zero clearance fireplace, installation of the chimney, rebuild of the alcove, the stonework and then installation of the wood stove in that order.

Chimney goes through the roof, straight up. The chimney is in the center of the house pretty much ; our spare bedroom is behind the alcove, so pretty much all the heat goes into the house and not conducted to the outside by the chimney. There is not much pipe above the house, pretty much just the chimney cap, see pic below.

My 1 nonnegotiable when designing and installing this stove was safety. So there is four layers of Durock Next Gen on the hearth floor and two layers in the back wall which were not needed and the entire upper alcove is covered in Durock, which was also not needed, but it's nice for the piece of mind. The only problem this year: It hasn't been cold enough to run it!

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ETA: this pic was taken about 10 minutes after getting a fire started in a cold stove. As you can see, no smoke. That's one indication of a good EPA rated stove burning well seasoned wood. IN, USA. Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs: [ so I have to really have faith in the insulating value and trustworthiness of the flue pipe. I have not used the modern wood stoves. What kind of spark arrestors, if any, are included to keep sparks from exiting the chimney at the top?

Now you have me thinking. My framing members are not on 18" centers. I could theoretically open the wall, box in the framing members with insulation and durock, creating a "wood free zone" where the chimney exits the wall it's going out my back wall. Dunno if that would work or not. I'll have to think on it and do some more reading. Might be wasted effort. One more question. It's simplier than the top and front loading F50, but I've not need of top loading and as a cooking style don't grill my foods. Thanks everyone. Originally Posted By Merlin: None, except for the information that Sig provided in his post below yours: An EPA rated wood stove burning well seasoned wood and an operator me who understands good wood stove fire management.

Here's a pic of my chimney cap. The installer did not recommend a spark arrestor. He said all they do is trap crap and plug up the chimney. Originally Posted By 4v Some stoves have optional screens to keep embers from popping open when the door is left open. MD, USA. Unlikley for the average dipshit. Most people just ain't worth it. Originally Posted By 4v Good point about ashpans. Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs: But I also won't always burn perfectly seasoned wood, because I can see situations where in a bad situation I might not have that.

In an emergency, if I'm depending on the stove, I'll burn what I have to burn or at least, I've been in those circumstances before, and know how to manage less than perfect wood as well, though it is certainly not the best choice. Part of the reason for wanting a wood stove is adaptation in emergencies, and that might mean the wood isn't there yet.

That is not to say I would burn wet wood as a practice. I won't. Originally Posted By 4v Yes. It covered what I would have paid for the sales tax and a bit more. Stay Connected. Newsletter Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more. Contact Us Advertising. View Quote I almost bought that stove last year. After much research I went with the Jotul F It has been a solid heater and I would highly recommend it to anyone.

That being said, the Lopi Liberty is a very good stove as well. View Quote The F50 Rangley also has an ash pan. I did not want an ash pan as that is one more gasket to have to replace. I wanted a simple stove that can heat my house well. We have been very happy with the performance of our F55 and it should provide us with many years of maintenance free heating. It is one if the only stoves with only one gasket to replace and has no Cat to worry about and the Baffle has a lifetime warranty. That's 2 hours closer View Quote Nice, go check it out and look at some other stoves for comparison.

He saw mine in action and knew how happy I was with it and ended up buying the F55 as well.

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I see that cuttingedge gotz this. View Quote Ditto. Just over ft sq. It works very well. Wood stoves in basements can be tricky. Check on hearth. You can always have a smaller fire in a 30, but you can never have a big fire in a If you have a house big enough for a basement, you probaly have enough house for a But it all depends on the details, most of which I don't know. I'll take some pics of the detail work tomorrow. You could cook on the PE but it would have been a slow simmer. I had one of the inexpensive magnet thermometers on the top of the stove right near the flue collar and IIRC it usually read F.

Seemed to burn well there. You could simmer at that temperature but not much more. We had a decorative water dish sit on the stove and it would evaporate a half gallon or so over the course of a day. We always used the LP cooktop, but if you had to use the stove, either simmer beans or whatever on the stove or just rake coals to the front and cook on a cast iron skillet or dutch oven right in the firebox.

I want to build one of those for my shop, but I have to have someone install the chimney pipe and the installers around here at least the ones I've talked to won't hook up a non-EPA rated stove. There is also the issue of having a wood burning stove in a vehicle building to consider as well. Oh well. And I see that I owe someone some pics. Hopefully tomorrow. Here are some pics I think of what you were asking for. And here's whats underneath it all:.